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The State vs. the Street

Betel nut stalls occupy every corner, straddling fractured pavements. Their patrons, typically male, chew on these acorn-like seeds and spit out viscous, blood-red saliva. Commonplace, the crimson splatters are a staple of the urban terrain just as it is analogous of the city’s economic lifeblood: informal street-level vendors. To be sure, to describe these businesses … Continue reading The State vs. the Street

The Wheels on the Bus

Responsible for ferrying around the former capital’s estimated 2.6 million commuters – about half of Yangon’s 5.2 million residents – Yangon’s long-overdue, rehauled public bus system launched in January 2017 to much fanfare. In a city that is grounded by aged infrastructure and an uncoordinated public transport system, getting from A to B used to … Continue reading The Wheels on the Bus

Inaugural Post

Sat with a virgin mojito in hand (it’s only just past noon) as I’m nestled between a trough of leafy plants, rain spatters against the window as the monsoon brings about its capricious downpours. Forced indoors, I am confronted with one of my perennial failures to complete the most basic of tasks: to write a … Continue reading Inaugural Post